Thinking about downlights for your home or renovation? Here's what a clean installation involves, the difference between LED and older halogen systems, and what to ask before you book.
Downlights are one of the most popular residential electrical requests we get — and one of the most variable in terms of quality of installation. Here's what separates a clean result from a patchy one.
LED vs halogen — what's in your ceiling now?
If your home was built or renovated before around 2015, there's a good chance you have 50W halogen downlights running off low-voltage transformers in the ceiling. These are energy-hungry, generate significant heat, and are typically nearing end of life. Modern LED downlights use around 8–10W for the same output, don't overheat, and last far longer.
What a proper LED retrofit involves
- Removing the existing halogen fittings and their transformers
- Checking the cabling and insulation around the old holes
- Verifying the circuit protection is appropriate for the new fittings
- Installing LED downlights with correct IC (insulation contact) rating where required
- Ensuring the holes are the right size — patching oversize holes if needed
Installing new downlights in a renovation
For new installations, the layout matters. We plan the position of each fitting based on the room dimensions, ceiling height, and what you're trying to achieve — even lighting, feature zones, or both. Getting involved before plasterboard goes up means the wiring is hidden properly and the result looks like it was always meant to be there.
Dimming — getting it right
Not all LED downlights dim correctly with standard dimmers. We match the fittings to compatible dimmer switches and test the range before we leave. There's nothing more frustrating than a dimmer that only works in the top 30% of the range, or that buzzes at low levels.